Anna Bellavita
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- Bakery café
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Sfogliatelle by the station, the Scaturchio family's ministeriale, Moccia in Chiaia and the pastry bars of Vomero and Spaccanapoli.
Photo: Nati, Pexels License
A Naples pasticceria is a pastry shop with a bar counter, and some of its family names are older than the unified Italian state. Carraturo, on Via Casanova, has been run by the same family since 1837; Augustus, on Via Toledo, dates from 1927.1
The standard order is a sfogliatella or a babà, the yeast cake soaked in rum. The baba came to France from Lorraine in the 18th century, the rum version appeared in Paris in 1835 or before, and Naples adopted it as babà or babbà.2 For years prices stayed low: in May 2019 Attanasio, by the station, charged €1.30 for a riccia or a frolla, €1.50 for a babà and €2.50 for a portion of pastiera.3
Local tip: For a sfogliatella straight from the oven in the center, try Pintauro on Via Toledo, which bakes riccia and frolla all day, and eat it standing at the counter.
Where these cafés are: Piazza Garibaldi & Vasto (5), Centro Storico (4), Vomero & Arenella (4), Chiaia & Lungomare (3), Mergellina & Posillipo (2), Fuorigrotta & Bagnoli (2), Toledo & Quartieri Spagnoli (1), Municipio & Porto (1).
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The Scaturchio name runs through three shops. In 1903 Pasquale Scaturchio bought a pastry shop at Via Portamedina 22; Francesco took over Via Toledo 401, which became a pastry shop and chocolate factory; and Giovanni opened on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19 in 1919 or 1920.4
Francesco created the ministeriale for Anna Fougez, a café-chantant star who had asked for a cake in her honor. He wanted the title of supplier to the royal house, met endless red tape and declared it "un affare ministeriale", a ministerial affair; a letter shows the cake was already patented in 1923.4 Bar Pasticceria Scaturchio is on Piazza Amedeo in Chiaia, and another Scaturchio is at Via Luca Giordano 77 in Vomero.
The streets around Napoli Centrale have more pasticcerie than any other part of Naples: Sfogliatelle Attanasio in Vico Ferrovia, SfogliateLAB on Corso Novara, Il Dolce Mattino at Corso Garibaldi 317 and Nayman Café at Corso Umberto 248.
Vomero and the Centro Storico follow. On the hill, Gran Caffè Pasticceria Santoro is on Via Simone Martini and Bar Pasticceria Roma on Via Vincenzo Gemito. In the old center, Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle bakes on Via San Gregorio Armeno, daily 08:00–19:00, Mazz Bar Pasticceria is at Via dei Tribunali 359 and Bar Pasticceria L'Oro di Napoli at Via Enrico Pessina 5.
Giuseppina Moccia's Chiaia bakery, opened in 1936, made its name with pizzette. After it closed, the business passed to Giuseppina Moccia's three children, who added a bar format; Pasquale later bought all the bakery's shares.5 Fratelli La Bufala bought the business from the Romano brothers, the family opened in Posillipo in 2009, and in 2017 Moccia Capodichino opened on the second floor of the airport's international departures area.5
Today Bar Pasticceria Moccia is at Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 21, with Pasticceria Piterà at number 30, and the Posillipo shop on Via Posillipo opens Tuesday to Sunday.
Gambero Rosso notes the claim that Carraturo makes the best babà in the city, and recommends Augustus for its pastiera, the ricotta-and-wheat Easter tart, also sold in a maxi size.1 Pintauro, a tiny shop at Via Toledo 275 near Piazza del Plebiscito, bakes riccia and frolla throughout the day.1
On Piazza Cavour, Di Costanzo at number 133 mixes classic Neapolitan pastry with modern and French-inspired work, and Mignone, a family-run shop at 145, lists ricce and frolle among its house specialties.1
By area: Municipio & Porto Centro Storico Piazza Garibaldi & Vasto Toledo & Quartieri Spagnoli Vomero & Arenella Chiaia & Lungomare Mergellina & Posillipo
The ministeriale is a chocolate cake created by the pastry chef Francesco Scaturchio for the café-chantant star Anna Fougez. Seeking the title of supplier to the royal house, he ran into so much red tape that he called it "un affare ministeriale", and the name stuck. A letter shows it was patented by 1923.
Gambero Rosso reports the claim that Carraturo, on Via Casanova and run by the same family since 1837, makes the best babà in the city. Augustus on Via Toledo, dating from 1927, is known for its pastiera, which it also sells in a maxi size. In 2019 Attanasio sold babà for €1.50.
Giuseppina Moccia founded the bakery on Via San Pasquale in Chiaia in 1936, and it became known for its pizzette. The family later added a bar format, opened in Posillipo in 2009 and opened Moccia Capodichino at Naples airport in 2017. Bar Pasticceria Moccia is at Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 21.
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